The Great
Petaluma Desert
Petaluma Desert
South African Trip 1999
These pages, along with the photographs, describe in part the two-week trip I made to South Africa from 20 October 1999 to 5 November 1999. With the exception of the air travel to and from South Africa, I was in the company of three members of our Fat Plant Discussion Group. Maddy Lehmann and Chris and Hennalé Steyn. Three strangers that I met as a result of the internet, and they have become three of my closest friends! Without their friendship, I would probably never have made this journey, and seen and experienced a lifetime of treasures!
South Africa
'A World in one Country'
Wednesday - 20 October 1999. I awoke at 0600 hours to begin a journey that would transform my life. I nervously worked around the nursery, checking on all of the thousand things that must be done, if I was to leave for 2 and a half weeks. At 1300 hours, I was at the bus stop ready to leave for the airport. At 1600 hours I boarded the plane (Economy Class) that would take me on the first part of my journey - Frankfurt, Germany. I arrived at Frankfurt at 1205 hours, the next day, tired and wanting to continue the trip. An infant aboard that flight had kept everyone from getting any sleep!!! Nine and half-hours of drinking coffee, juices and water had made it seem like nine and a half days! I finally departed Frankfurt at 2140 hours, in Business Class this time. I could actually stretch out my legs. However, sleep still did not come! Now it was a case of excitement and nerves! Maddy Lehmann was going to meet me at the airport, and I told her I would be wearing a brown cowboy hat!
Friday - 22 October 1999. I saw my first South African sunrise. It was the same as any other sunrise, but different! This was South African!!! The plane touched down at 0750 hours, and my journey begins. Johannesburg Airport in one word - fiasco! They are renovating it, and NO ONE, knows what is going on! We are bounced from one terminal to another, for baggage and then Customs. No problem - because Maddy will see the brown cowboy hat! However, Maddy is in another terminal following their directions! For some strange security reason, no one is allowed to make announcements at this airport. After waiting for over an hour, and even going to a different terminal, I hear an announcement: 'Would Jerry Wright please report to the South African Airways information counter'! Great, I am saved! However, no one seemed to know where this counter is! An elderly gentleman from Thomas Cooks' takes me there. I then find out Maddy bribed someone to make that announcement. And, that someone is sure letting me know that any tips should definitely come his way!
Maddy shows up, a couple of brief stares, a quick hug, and we are on our way. After a tip to the man that made that announcement. What surprised me was that Maddy even let me ride in the front of her car. I think that after almost 2 days of being on airplanes and sitting in airport terminals, she would have made me sit in the trunk (boot) of her car. I couldn't have smelled too fresh! A very refreshing shower and a change of clothes at her house, and we are on our way to Chris and Hennalé's. I wonder what Maddy is thinking about this whole thing?
Upon arriving at Chris & Hennalé's home, introductions are made all around, as none of us have met before. Chris and Hennalé live in a community called 'Mooikloof'. A beautiful gated community, which over looks Pretoria. Hennalé has created some beautiful gardens here. Cussonia paniculata Here is where I learn that it will be difficult to identify some plants, that I thought I was totally familiar with, because of their size! A Kalanchoe thyrsiflora with leaves the size of Table Tennis Paddles! I am beginning to feel insignificant!
Maddy receives some last minutes directions from Chris to his farm, which is called Liverpool, and is located in Hoedspruit, Limpopo province. Maddy will be picking me up this coming Sunday and taking me to their farm - Mafunyane. Both farms are located very near the Kruger National Park. Maddy returns home, and Chris, Hennalé and I are off to Liverpool.
It is a very comfortable 4-hour drive to Liverpool; however, Chris and Hennalé do take pity on me, and stop half way there, saying they also need to stretch their legs. Upon arriving at Liverpool, my very first sight is a pair of giraffes. Nothing prepares you for your first sighting of an animal of this size in the wild! Awesome! A short ride up a truly bumpy road, and we arrive at their camp. Rustic, yet very homey! I was to find out the next day, that they even had 'Hot Showers', but not until after I had the coldest shower of my life!
Chris gives me a very short tour of the place, and I see thousands of Adenium multiflorum and Pachypodium saundersii growing everywhere! Here is one of the two places where he and his partner, Harry Botha, grow these plants. I will meet Harry the next day!
It is here where I have my second experience with the size differences in my plants, and their plants! I walk over to a small tree, to examine a thick vine (5cm dia) growing up into it. I don't recognize it. I follow the thick vine with my eyes, until I come to its end. Cripes! It is a Cissus quadrangularis!!! Now I know I am lost! I ask Chris what they call this plant, and he says, 'The Snake Hotel', because Mambas and other snakes like to live in them! Oh boy, am I in trouble!
That evening Chris and Hennalé prepare a barbecue for me. The barbecue consisted of Ostrich and probably some kind of antelope. They both said it was just chicken and beef, but I knew better! The beer and wine flowed that night! The camaraderie was beautiful! Joking and swapping stories!! I probably drank a case each of beer and wine, however, Chris and Hennalé said I didn't even come close to that! I knew they were kidding, by the size of my 'hangover' the next morning!!!
Saturday, 23 October 1999. I wake up and wonder if I am dead!!! This is the mother of all hangovers!!! I stagger out of my room and over to the outdoor shower. I turn on the hot water, and it is 'cold'. I wait a moment and it gets colder! Another moment and it gets colder still! I decide if I wait any longer, ice cubes will come out! I lather up, so that I can't change my mind, and jump in! Words cannot describe that pain! Why in the dickens did I have to lather up? Partial amnesia takes place and saves me.
Back in my room, I dress, grab my camera, and out the door. I stop by the kitchen, put the hot water on for coffee, and do a little surveying. Walking down a path, I hear this loud stomping noise, and I look down and it is a 6" long millipede. Oh I wish it would hurry on it's way, so I wouldn't hear all of that stomping! Oh, this hangover! The next thing I notice is a large caudiciform lying in a pile of branches. It appears to be some kind of cucurbit! I pick it up to carry back to camp. I also notice some old vines growing up a small tree. I dig down a couple of inches and find a very large caudex, which I re-bury. It appears to be another cucurbit, probably a kedrostis. I start noticing commiphoras, because of their distinctive flower. They appear to be everywhere! On one small commiphora there is another vine growing, so I again start digging, and encounter the top of a small caudex. The ground is as hard as concrete! I go and get 'Macaroni', a young boy whose mother and father work on the farm. I ask him to bring a pickax. Very gingerly I show him how to dig around the caudex, and then we go and get a pail of water. I dump the pail of water in the hole, and point to my watch, and ask him to dig it up at 0630 hours. I go back to camp, and have a nice hot cup of 'instant' coffee. Oh - where is my 'French Roast' now? Hey - I am out in the bush, time to rough it!
Chris and Hennalé finally wake up, and can't believe that I am still alive! Aha, I feel better, because they also have hangovers! They ask me if I have showered yet, and I say 'yes'. Oh, by the way, Chris says: 'the hot and cold shower knobs are reversed'! Aaagh! I think we had breakfast, but I really don't remember!
Harry Shows up, looks at the lot of us, and shakes his head! After introductions, I think we all sat down for coffee. Things are still a little blurry. After a while it is time to load into the pickup truck and go sightseeing. 'This is what the trip is all about!'
Off we go into the 'bush'. Boy, that ride 'in' was a breeze compared to some of the trails we are now on! Well - it shook the hangover out of me! Didn't have time for that, I was too busy hanging on! 'Hold on to your hat'; because those low growing acacias, with those 'Big' Thorns' just love to grab them! I later told Chris, he should be charging 5 Rand for the ride, because it was a lot scarier than some of the rides at Disneyland!
Oh, so much to see! Even though the rains have not come yet, and everything is in different hues of browns and grays, it is still spectacular! Chris is pointing out the different trees that I have only read about in the past! Once again - commiphoras everywhere! Chris later estimated that he probably has over 10,000 commiphoras on his property alone! When I first mentioned to Chris that I was interested in commiphoras, he asked -why? Commiphoras aren't even good for firewood, was his reply. He has since changed his opinion of these plants.
Of particular interest to me was the 'Rock Figs'. These beautiful trees find a rock crevice, and start growing! Splitting and rendering everything that is trying to constrain them! This is one of the plants that Maddy kept writing to me about, and now I see why!
It is now time to see Chris' giant Pachypodium!!! Chris mentions that nothing can prepare you for this sight, and he is right! As we walk over to where the plant is, the first thing I notice is that it is ringed by a short wall of field stones, sort of like a shrine.
The plant is immense! The base is approximately 2.5 meters across, and this is not counting the branches!!! It is a spectacular site to behold! I had thought that I had seen large Pachypodium saundersii before, but they are all dwarfs compared to this 'Giant'. The strange thing about this plant is that there are no other ones anywhere near it! It is as if a single seed landed here a hundred or more years ago, and this plant is the result.
Once again we jump into the pickup truck and are off to see some more pachypodiums. This next site is just as awe inspiring, because there are so many large plants. There are probably 9 or 10 plants that are at least a meter across, and maybe a dozen or two in sizes ranging down to 10 or 15 centimeters across. (Pachypodium) They are mainly growing between rock wedges that are sticking out of the ground. I am at a loss for words. It is here that Chris collected his original seeds to start his operation.
Back into the truck and more sightseeing. We are continuously stopping to look at this tree or that tree, and an occasional vine that is growing up and around something. We also take a few commiphora cuttings to pot up and root. We see a few ipomoea flowers, one corallocarpus vine, and numerous other cucurbit vines. I am pointing these out to Macaroni and his father - Relias, because it is they that will need to recognize these plants, and either harvest some plants or their seeds when they are ripe. They both nod knowingly, that they are quite familiar with these plants.
Chris asks, shall we go to Harry's place, or back to camp for lunch? Harry's place it is! Harry's farm borders on Chris' and it is just a short hop to get there. My first sight is that of Echinocactus grusonii, and lots of them!!! Then other cacti come into view! Whoa, what is going on? It seems that Harry loves cacti! From his huge 10 foot tall stenocereus to a tiny ariocarpus. Harry has transformed a portion of his farm into a Mexican desert!
After about an hour of sightseeing, and I am turning purple at the gills, Chris suggests that we head back for lunch! I wholeheartedly agree. I am praying that I can make it back to camp, and my bed! Once back to camp, Chris tells me that I was looking pretty 'white', and he thought it best to head back to camp. The beer, the wine, and almost 2 days without sleep, was more than my body could take. I went back to bed! In my fog, I heard Chris tell Hennalé, 'He's still alive, because I saw him move." A couple of hour's sleep was all that I needed. I woke up - refreshed and ready to go.
I showed Chris the cucurbit that Macaroni dug up, and told him that this is one of the types of plants that we need to start propagating. Because Relias and Macaroni know this area very intimately, they should have no problem locating caudiciforms. If they could locate 5 or 6 plants of each species, dig them up, and bring them back to camp for repotting, that would become our seed stock. Once the rains come, and the plants in this area start growing, it should be quite easy to locate, and then identify most of the caudiciforms in this area.
Later that day, we all go back to Harry's. It is now that Harry shows me his two large Pachypodium saundersii. These two plants, were once one. Harry had to separate the plant in order to move it. It is here that I have my first and only encounter with a 'Wait-a-bit' plant. In my hurry to get a picture of Harry's plant, I brush into this small plant. It grabs hold of me! The more you struggle, the tighter its grip! Soon everyone is laughing, and I am told that is why it is called Wait-a-bit! Harry untangled me!
I notice a large Sterculia rogersii next to Harry's house, and it is loaded with seed pods. I ask Harry if he ever harvests the seeds, and he said the birds usually get them long before he even has a chance. As soon as he knows that I am interested in the seeds, he mentions he will make a special effort to beat the birds to them. Harry then asks if I would like to see a big Sterculia rogersii, and of course I say 'yes'. We walk over to what he calls his bench. Here is a Sterculia rogersii large enough that 3 people can sit comfortably on one of its exposed roots. I notice that the root is quite polished, so I ask Harry if he uses it regularly, and he only smiles. We spend another hour or so at Harry's and then head back to camp. A very restful night follows!
Sunday, 24 October 1999. I am awake at the crack of dawn, listening to hear if anyone else is up and moving around. Relias and Letta are up and already at work. That means hot water for the shower. So with that, I grab my toilet articles and head for a hot shower! Ooh does it feel good! A hot shower - out in the bush!!! I finish, get dressed, and put some water on for some nice hot instant coffee! It isn't long before Chris and Hennalé are joining me for coffee. After Hennalé has her coffee, she starts preparing breakfast. I was hoping for some scrambled Ostrich eggs, ham from a wild boar, and muffins baked on a hot rock! It wasn't to be! At least it wasn't cold cereal!
After breakfast, we all load into the pickup truck for some more sightseeing. Chris wants to show me a couple more of his favorite trees. On the way to his Mahogany tree, we notice a shrub that has been broken and somewhat torn up. I ask Chris what caused that, and he said probably baboons, because they are so destructive. Hmm! On the way out after looking at the Mahogany tree, and a nearby river, we again pass by this shrub. This time Chris asks Relias about the shrub. They are talking in Afrikaans, so I don't know what they are saying. However, Relias takes some of the shredded bark, and starts rubbing it between his palms. He is turning it into long fibers! He then straightens these fibers out, and starts twisting them together. Chris then gets a harsh look on his face! He explains to me that the poachers use this kind of shrub to make 'in-the-field' twine for their traps. Earlier Chris showed me hundreds upon hundreds of feet of wire snares that they have found on their farm! These wire snares are set indiscriminately around the farm by poachers, and sometimes left for days or weeks without checking them. Anything caught in them dies a cruel and painful death!!!
On the way back to camp, we meet another vehicle coming towards us. Who could that be? Its Maddy! She has come to the farm to pick me up! We all drive back to camp, and have a very lively discussion. Maddy wants to know all about Chris and Hennalé's camp, and they about hers.
First things first! We must go and show Maddy the Pachypodiums here on the farm! She is as awe struck as the rest of us. You could see these plants a hundred times, and still be inspired each and every time!
Back at camp we are talking about everything that comes to mind. Hennalé serves us a very nice brunch, as she does not want anyone to even think that they are hungry. A 'cute' nickname I gave her while staying with them, was 'my food-pusher', as I was on a diet, and she constantly wanted to feed me! I don't think she approved of diets, at least for me! Then we look at our watches and realize it is time to head out! Chris and Hennalé have to go back to Mooikloof, and Maddy and I are heading for Mafunyane! Liverpool [Hoedspruit] Photos
Mafunyane
In the two+ days spent at Mafunyane, We saw many different species of antelopes, a Puff Adder, a Monitor Lizard, zebras, giraffes, monkeys, baboons, a crocodile, a Cheetah (in a boma), several tortoises, numerous birds, wildebeests, several ostriches, and even a few 'giant' Bush Hares! We were not fortunate enough to see the lions, elephants, rhinoceros, or the hippo name 'Annie'.
However, probably the most spectacular sight that I saw at Mafunyane was during the first evening. Maddy had just prepared dinner on the 'Braai', and we were having a nice hot cup of instant coffee, when she mentioned that it sounds like a storm coming in. I listened carefully, and way off in the distance you could hear some thunder. Within a few minutes the thunder was much louder. It was a very fast moving storm. I mentioned that the storm probably wouldn't amount to much, because it was moving so fast! Within 15 or 20 minutes the storm was on top of us, and boy was I wrong!!! The storm seemed to stall right there! The rain was coming down in buckets, and the lightning and thunder were putting on a spectacularly beautiful show!!! Twice the lightning hit so close that it was blindingly bright! After all I had heard about the dryness and drought, it was as if Mother Nature had decided it was time to help out, and even to display herself in all of her glory! Rain - Lightning - and Thunder!
We lost power that evening, and for most of the next day, however, it was well worth it, to be able to see how fast the plants start responding to a good rainfall. First, all of the dust was washed off the plants, and then within 24 hours, everything was putting on a new show of greenery.
The day that Maddy chose to show me the Pachypodium saundersii at Mafunyane was a very eventful day. We had another encounter with Lord Nelson - the ostrich, were told that the lions had attacked someone's horse, and Maddy had her first encounter with a Puff Adder!!! I'll let her tell that one! Anyway, things were a little spooky that day, and after countless attempts to find the road to these pachypodiums, we finally arrived on site. It was a beautiful large rock formation. As soon as we got out of the Bakkie, Maddy says to keep our ears open and pay attention! Damn, she has never said that before, so there must be something dangerous about this place. When you look at it, it looks like any of the hundred rock formations that you have seen on television, with lions sleeping on them!!! Oh boy, I am not liking this one bit! And now my nervousness is getting to Maddy. We walk into the tall grass for only about 10 meters, and out with a 'roar', comes this giant Bush Hare!!! Must have been at least a foot tall, and scared the living daylights out of us! After a moment, we continued towards the rock formation. This time we got about 20 meters, before another giant Bush Hare jumped out. Damn those things! We finally make it to the rock formation, and the pachys are beautiful, and so is the scenery from up here! After 20 or 30 minutes of sightseeing, we head back to the Bakkie, this time from the other direction. Well, after 15 or 20 meters in the grass, the third and final giant Bush Hare did it's thing, and managed to take a few years off of both of us. Bush Walks
It is Tuesday morning, and this is the day that we have to head back to civilization. We had another nice storm move through last night, not as spectacular as the first one, but the plants and animals are just as happy! The two days at Mafunyane seemed to go by too fast, and I am hoping that the rest of this vacation starts slowing down! We first have to see if we can drive out, because the roads are pretty muddy! The Bakkie makes it with a little bit of effort, but the real test will be if Maddy's car can make it. We decide to wait a few hours and give the roads a chance to dry somewhat. So we make one last drive through Mafunyane. We encounter Lord Nelson one more time! He is standing in the middle of the road, blocking it for us. I tell Maddy, it is if he is demanding a toll, for allowing 'us' on 'his' roads. He does allow us to pass, and to show that he is still 'The Boss', he chases us for a short distance. Today most of the animals seem to be hiding, or just resting, because they have put on quite a display for us since we have been here. After a couple of hours of driving around, and letting the roads dry out a bit, we head back to the house, and finish packing. After all, it is a four-hour drive back to Edenvale.
We are able to get out in Maddy's car, in spite of the muddy roads. Maddy decides to take a different route back, in order to show me more of the country. This route takes almost an hour longer, however, when we drive through an area near Pietersburg, I see new South African countryside. For miles upon miles, the hillsides are covered with tens of thousands of Aloe marlothii. Thank goodness they are on steep hillsides, otherwise, they would have been plowed under to make room for more orchards!
We pull into Edenvale, and a washer and dryer, as tomorrow we are off to Cape Town! Mafunyane Photos
Cape Town
Right in the center of their greenhouse is a big beautiful Adansonia digitata. Equally beautiful Aloe dichotomas and one or two Aloe pillansii surround the adansonia. As you walk around the greenhouse, each new turn brings another ooh or aah from our lips. In my opinion, the Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden grows the nicest looking Tylecodon paniculatas I have ever seen. They are squat and fat! They must realize that these plants are a thing of beauty, because they are planted everywhere! And, I did not get tired of seeing them! The one disappointing feature of Kirstenbosch was their lack of signs indicating plant names. When I mentioned this to one of the personnel working at the garden, he said that school children were the problem, as they constantly remove the signs. We thought that this was a good excuse for the missing signs, until we went upstairs, and observed the mesemb collection, which is behind glass. There an equal number of signs were missing. It is very frustrating to see a beautiful plant in this collection, and not be able to identify it! One of the most unusual items I saw, was a 'crest' of something, however, I was unable to determine what it was! It appeared to be solid wood, and of course there was no sign indicating what it was.
I even got caught up in the bulb section! More beautiful plants, in flower no less! A 'hot pink' flower here, and an 'icy blue' one there! Wow, I am not a bulb person; however, in this area I could easily change my mind!
Next we head outdoors, and the gardens here are even more spectacular! The cycad and fern area is not to be believed! Some of these plants are not just huge, they are monsters! Ten and fifteen foot tall plants abound. It is as if someone transported you back to the Jurassic Period. Plus, ponds and waterfalls everywhere. In one area there were stepping stones set in a pond, just an inch or so above the water level - to allow you to walk into this grotto without getting your feet wet. This place is filled with wondrous ideas and places!
Next we head off for one of the places we were really looking forward to visiting - the bookstore!!! A wonderful selection of books and pamphlets. We are happily browsing through one of the section, when we both spot the 'Out-of-print' bookcase! Maddy tries an end-run around me, I stick my foot out and she tumbles, but just to make sure, a well paced hip-shot, and she is down! I nonchalantly stroll over to the bookcase to see what is available. There I find Doreen Court's book: 'Succulent Flora of Southern Africa'. As long as no one else is interested in the book, I decide to buy it. Maddy, disheveled, walks over to see what I bought. Oh, she cries, 'I have been looking for that book for sooo many years, you are very lucky'!
We look at our watches, and realize it is time to move on. Maddy's Kirstenbosch
The Bookstore
Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden
Paarl
It is 1 o'clock, and we are waiting outside of the main office. Doreen Court returns and invites us in to talk to her. I explain that I just purchased her book at Kirstenbosch, and ask her if she will autograph it for me. She asks how much I paid for the book, and then says 'No - don't tell me', because she doesn't want to know! She went on to explain that when the book was first published, she was given 10% of the sales price (25.00 Rand) of each book, which was 2.50 Rand! Curiosity got the best of her, and she flipped the book over to see the price, and almost screamed, when she saw the price was now 950.00 Rand! I told her that that was nothing, because as soon as she autographed it, I would be able to sell it for 5,000.00 Rand. She looked at me wide-eyed, and I told her I was kidding, and that I had no intention of selling the book. She said she shouldn't put my name in it when she autographed it, because that would lower the selling price! I convinced her to put my name in the autograph!!! So, the autograph says: With best wishes to Jerry - Doreen Court. 28/10/99.
She explained that her new book would be out within a year, and she is already working on another one. Maddy asked her if she would pose for a photograph or two, and she kindly agreed. Maddy was walking on air!!!
After Doreen Court left, the curator showed us a slide show, and then gave us a private tour of the Garden's stock plants. Some of the asclepiadaceae in the collection were fantastic. We then purchased some seeds, and started planning our next stop. Let's see - what is the name of that town? Aah, Robertson, and there we'll visit Sheilam's Nursery.
Karoo Botanical Garden
Sheilam's Nursery
Sheilam's has some very nice plants for sale, and reasonably priced. Sheilam's Nursery
Vanrhynsdorp and beyond!
Cape Point
We take a tram to the top of the point, and the scenery is awesome! Most of the plants up here are quite stunted and exquisite looking. There seem to be beautiful lizards everywhere. Especially the Cape Girdled Lizard, which looks like a small bronze statue.
We are trying to take in as much scenery as possible, but alas, the clock keeps ticking. It is time to head back to the airport and our flight to Johannesburg. It is an uneventful drive to the airport. We drop off our rental car, board our airplane, and depart Cape Town!
Cape Point
Johannesburg / Pretoria
I have also noticed that Hennalé is in very good physical condition. We are walking up and down, and up and down these hillsides, and I am starting to huff and puff, and Hennalé isn't breaking a stride. I ask her if she would like to take a break, and she says, 'no', she is fine! I notice a small café/restaurant, and make a break for it, telling Hennalé that I would like to buy her something cool to drink. After a relaxing half an hour, we head for the nursery where they sell plants. Their stock is very low, however, there are still some interesting plants to look at.
From here, Hennalé drives me around Pretoria, showing me different estates, and pointing out some of the more unusual plantings. I want to give Chris and Hennalé something to remind them of our times together, so I ask Hennalé to take me to one of the many roadside gatherings, where they sell everything from [fresh?] fruits, to exotic plants. Hennalé had admired a large Pachypodium lamerei at Harry Botha's farm, so I thought that would be an ideal gift, if I could find one. We were in luck, and I found three of them about 20" tall. I purchased them, and off we went, back to the Steyn's home. Here Hennalé selected the perfect spot for the plants, and had her gardener plant them. She wanted them in a location where she could see them with her morning breakfast.
The next day, Chris is able to get away from his office for a few hours, and we go sightseeing. Chris is able to get us into, and receive a guided tour of one of the largest wholesale nurseries in South Africa. I am totally blown away by the scope and variety of the plants grown here. While they had very few 'Fat Plants', the nursery was still very impressive. We are able to do some more sightseeing, and then a wonderful lunch, with some wonderful friends!
Time! The most fleeting commodity when you are with friends and having a good time! The 4th of November is upon us, and it is my last day in South Africa. Hennalé and I sit around making small talk, and trying to stop the clock. Maddy comes over to visit, and now there are three of us, trying to stop the clock! Chris is able to get out of the office, and come home so that the four of us can be together, and for a brief period re-live the past 2 weeks.
It is time to go to the airport, so we all hug one last time, and promise that we will remain friends and see one another, sometime in the future! Once again Maddy is my chauffeur, and off we go to the airport. Pretoria
Miscellaneous
South Africa
'A World in one Country'
The motto of South Africa, is: 'A World in one Country.', and you have
to visit it to understand. In many places in South Africa, if you close
your eyes, forget where you are, and then open them, you could believe that
you are home! The mountains, the rivers, the seaside, the prairies (Savannah),
all remind you of home. The country and its people make you welcome, and
make you feel like you are home.
Wednesday - 20 October 1999. I awoke at 0600 hours to begin a journey that would transform my life. I nervously worked around the nursery, checking on all of the thousand things that must be done, if I was to leave for 2 and a half weeks. At 1300 hours, I was at the bus stop ready to leave for the airport. At 1600 hours I boarded the plane (Economy Class) that would take me on the first part of my journey - Frankfurt, Germany. I arrived at Frankfurt at 1205 hours, the next day, tired and wanting to continue the trip. An infant aboard that flight had kept everyone from getting any sleep!!! Nine and half-hours of drinking coffee, juices and water had made it seem like nine and a half days! I finally departed Frankfurt at 2140 hours, in Business Class this time. I could actually stretch out my legs. However, sleep still did not come! Now it was a case of excitement and nerves! Maddy Lehmann was going to meet me at the airport, and I told her I would be wearing a brown cowboy hat!
Friday - 22 October 1999. I saw my first South African sunrise. It was the same as any other sunrise, but different! This was South African!!! The plane touched down at 0750 hours, and my journey begins. Johannesburg Airport in one word - fiasco! They are renovating it, and NO ONE, knows what is going on! We are bounced from one terminal to another, for baggage and then Customs. No problem - because Maddy will see the brown cowboy hat! However, Maddy is in another terminal following their directions! For some strange security reason, no one is allowed to make announcements at this airport. After waiting for over an hour, and even going to a different terminal, I hear an announcement: 'Would Jerry Wright please report to the South African Airways information counter'! Great, I am saved! However, no one seemed to know where this counter is! An elderly gentleman from Thomas Cooks' takes me there. I then find out Maddy bribed someone to make that announcement. And, that someone is sure letting me know that any tips should definitely come his way!
Maddy shows up, a couple of brief stares, a quick hug, and we are on our way. After a tip to the man that made that announcement. What surprised me was that Maddy even let me ride in the front of her car. I think that after almost 2 days of being on airplanes and sitting in airport terminals, she would have made me sit in the trunk (boot) of her car. I couldn't have smelled too fresh! A very refreshing shower and a change of clothes at her house, and we are on our way to Chris and Hennalé's. I wonder what Maddy is thinking about this whole thing?
Upon arriving at Chris & Hennalé's home, introductions are made all around, as none of us have met before. Chris and Hennalé live in a community called 'Mooikloof'. A beautiful gated community, which over looks Pretoria. Hennalé has created some beautiful gardens here. Cussonia paniculata Here is where I learn that it will be difficult to identify some plants, that I thought I was totally familiar with, because of their size! A Kalanchoe thyrsiflora with leaves the size of Table Tennis Paddles! I am beginning to feel insignificant!
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Maddy receives some last minutes directions from Chris to his farm, which is called Liverpool, and is located in Hoedspruit, Limpopo province. Maddy will be picking me up this coming Sunday and taking me to their farm - Mafunyane. Both farms are located very near the Kruger National Park. Maddy returns home, and Chris, Hennalé and I are off to Liverpool.
It is a very comfortable 4-hour drive to Liverpool; however, Chris and Hennalé do take pity on me, and stop half way there, saying they also need to stretch their legs. Upon arriving at Liverpool, my very first sight is a pair of giraffes. Nothing prepares you for your first sighting of an animal of this size in the wild! Awesome! A short ride up a truly bumpy road, and we arrive at their camp. Rustic, yet very homey! I was to find out the next day, that they even had 'Hot Showers', but not until after I had the coldest shower of my life!
Chris gives me a very short tour of the place, and I see thousands of Adenium multiflorum and Pachypodium saundersii growing everywhere! Here is one of the two places where he and his partner, Harry Botha, grow these plants. I will meet Harry the next day!
It is here where I have my second experience with the size differences in my plants, and their plants! I walk over to a small tree, to examine a thick vine (5cm dia) growing up into it. I don't recognize it. I follow the thick vine with my eyes, until I come to its end. Cripes! It is a Cissus quadrangularis!!! Now I know I am lost! I ask Chris what they call this plant, and he says, 'The Snake Hotel', because Mambas and other snakes like to live in them! Oh boy, am I in trouble!
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That evening Chris and Hennalé prepare a barbecue for me. The barbecue consisted of Ostrich and probably some kind of antelope. They both said it was just chicken and beef, but I knew better! The beer and wine flowed that night! The camaraderie was beautiful! Joking and swapping stories!! I probably drank a case each of beer and wine, however, Chris and Hennalé said I didn't even come close to that! I knew they were kidding, by the size of my 'hangover' the next morning!!!
Saturday, 23 October 1999. I wake up and wonder if I am dead!!! This is the mother of all hangovers!!! I stagger out of my room and over to the outdoor shower. I turn on the hot water, and it is 'cold'. I wait a moment and it gets colder! Another moment and it gets colder still! I decide if I wait any longer, ice cubes will come out! I lather up, so that I can't change my mind, and jump in! Words cannot describe that pain! Why in the dickens did I have to lather up? Partial amnesia takes place and saves me.
Back in my room, I dress, grab my camera, and out the door. I stop by the kitchen, put the hot water on for coffee, and do a little surveying. Walking down a path, I hear this loud stomping noise, and I look down and it is a 6" long millipede. Oh I wish it would hurry on it's way, so I wouldn't hear all of that stomping! Oh, this hangover! The next thing I notice is a large caudiciform lying in a pile of branches. It appears to be some kind of cucurbit! I pick it up to carry back to camp. I also notice some old vines growing up a small tree. I dig down a couple of inches and find a very large caudex, which I re-bury. It appears to be another cucurbit, probably a kedrostis. I start noticing commiphoras, because of their distinctive flower. They appear to be everywhere! On one small commiphora there is another vine growing, so I again start digging, and encounter the top of a small caudex. The ground is as hard as concrete! I go and get 'Macaroni', a young boy whose mother and father work on the farm. I ask him to bring a pickax. Very gingerly I show him how to dig around the caudex, and then we go and get a pail of water. I dump the pail of water in the hole, and point to my watch, and ask him to dig it up at 0630 hours. I go back to camp, and have a nice hot cup of 'instant' coffee. Oh - where is my 'French Roast' now? Hey - I am out in the bush, time to rough it!
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Chris and Hennalé finally wake up, and can't believe that I am still alive! Aha, I feel better, because they also have hangovers! They ask me if I have showered yet, and I say 'yes'. Oh, by the way, Chris says: 'the hot and cold shower knobs are reversed'! Aaagh! I think we had breakfast, but I really don't remember!
Harry Shows up, looks at the lot of us, and shakes his head! After introductions, I think we all sat down for coffee. Things are still a little blurry. After a while it is time to load into the pickup truck and go sightseeing. 'This is what the trip is all about!'
Off we go into the 'bush'. Boy, that ride 'in' was a breeze compared to some of the trails we are now on! Well - it shook the hangover out of me! Didn't have time for that, I was too busy hanging on! 'Hold on to your hat'; because those low growing acacias, with those 'Big' Thorns' just love to grab them! I later told Chris, he should be charging 5 Rand for the ride, because it was a lot scarier than some of the rides at Disneyland!
Oh, so much to see! Even though the rains have not come yet, and everything is in different hues of browns and grays, it is still spectacular! Chris is pointing out the different trees that I have only read about in the past! Once again - commiphoras everywhere! Chris later estimated that he probably has over 10,000 commiphoras on his property alone! When I first mentioned to Chris that I was interested in commiphoras, he asked -why? Commiphoras aren't even good for firewood, was his reply. He has since changed his opinion of these plants.
Of particular interest to me was the 'Rock Figs'. These beautiful trees find a rock crevice, and start growing! Splitting and rendering everything that is trying to constrain them! This is one of the plants that Maddy kept writing to me about, and now I see why!
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It is now time to see Chris' giant Pachypodium!!! Chris mentions that nothing can prepare you for this sight, and he is right! As we walk over to where the plant is, the first thing I notice is that it is ringed by a short wall of field stones, sort of like a shrine.
The plant is immense! The base is approximately 2.5 meters across, and this is not counting the branches!!! It is a spectacular site to behold! I had thought that I had seen large Pachypodium saundersii before, but they are all dwarfs compared to this 'Giant'. The strange thing about this plant is that there are no other ones anywhere near it! It is as if a single seed landed here a hundred or more years ago, and this plant is the result.
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Once again we jump into the pickup truck and are off to see some more pachypodiums. This next site is just as awe inspiring, because there are so many large plants. There are probably 9 or 10 plants that are at least a meter across, and maybe a dozen or two in sizes ranging down to 10 or 15 centimeters across. (Pachypodium) They are mainly growing between rock wedges that are sticking out of the ground. I am at a loss for words. It is here that Chris collected his original seeds to start his operation.
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Back into the truck and more sightseeing. We are continuously stopping to look at this tree or that tree, and an occasional vine that is growing up and around something. We also take a few commiphora cuttings to pot up and root. We see a few ipomoea flowers, one corallocarpus vine, and numerous other cucurbit vines. I am pointing these out to Macaroni and his father - Relias, because it is they that will need to recognize these plants, and either harvest some plants or their seeds when they are ripe. They both nod knowingly, that they are quite familiar with these plants.
Chris asks, shall we go to Harry's place, or back to camp for lunch? Harry's place it is! Harry's farm borders on Chris' and it is just a short hop to get there. My first sight is that of Echinocactus grusonii, and lots of them!!! Then other cacti come into view! Whoa, what is going on? It seems that Harry loves cacti! From his huge 10 foot tall stenocereus to a tiny ariocarpus. Harry has transformed a portion of his farm into a Mexican desert!
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After about an hour of sightseeing, and I am turning purple at the gills, Chris suggests that we head back for lunch! I wholeheartedly agree. I am praying that I can make it back to camp, and my bed! Once back to camp, Chris tells me that I was looking pretty 'white', and he thought it best to head back to camp. The beer, the wine, and almost 2 days without sleep, was more than my body could take. I went back to bed! In my fog, I heard Chris tell Hennalé, 'He's still alive, because I saw him move." A couple of hour's sleep was all that I needed. I woke up - refreshed and ready to go.
I showed Chris the cucurbit that Macaroni dug up, and told him that this is one of the types of plants that we need to start propagating. Because Relias and Macaroni know this area very intimately, they should have no problem locating caudiciforms. If they could locate 5 or 6 plants of each species, dig them up, and bring them back to camp for repotting, that would become our seed stock. Once the rains come, and the plants in this area start growing, it should be quite easy to locate, and then identify most of the caudiciforms in this area.
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Later that day, we all go back to Harry's. It is now that Harry shows me his two large Pachypodium saundersii. These two plants, were once one. Harry had to separate the plant in order to move it. It is here that I have my first and only encounter with a 'Wait-a-bit' plant. In my hurry to get a picture of Harry's plant, I brush into this small plant. It grabs hold of me! The more you struggle, the tighter its grip! Soon everyone is laughing, and I am told that is why it is called Wait-a-bit! Harry untangled me!
I notice a large Sterculia rogersii next to Harry's house, and it is loaded with seed pods. I ask Harry if he ever harvests the seeds, and he said the birds usually get them long before he even has a chance. As soon as he knows that I am interested in the seeds, he mentions he will make a special effort to beat the birds to them. Harry then asks if I would like to see a big Sterculia rogersii, and of course I say 'yes'. We walk over to what he calls his bench. Here is a Sterculia rogersii large enough that 3 people can sit comfortably on one of its exposed roots. I notice that the root is quite polished, so I ask Harry if he uses it regularly, and he only smiles. We spend another hour or so at Harry's and then head back to camp. A very restful night follows!
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Sunday, 24 October 1999. I am awake at the crack of dawn, listening to hear if anyone else is up and moving around. Relias and Letta are up and already at work. That means hot water for the shower. So with that, I grab my toilet articles and head for a hot shower! Ooh does it feel good! A hot shower - out in the bush!!! I finish, get dressed, and put some water on for some nice hot instant coffee! It isn't long before Chris and Hennalé are joining me for coffee. After Hennalé has her coffee, she starts preparing breakfast. I was hoping for some scrambled Ostrich eggs, ham from a wild boar, and muffins baked on a hot rock! It wasn't to be! At least it wasn't cold cereal!
After breakfast, we all load into the pickup truck for some more sightseeing. Chris wants to show me a couple more of his favorite trees. On the way to his Mahogany tree, we notice a shrub that has been broken and somewhat torn up. I ask Chris what caused that, and he said probably baboons, because they are so destructive. Hmm! On the way out after looking at the Mahogany tree, and a nearby river, we again pass by this shrub. This time Chris asks Relias about the shrub. They are talking in Afrikaans, so I don't know what they are saying. However, Relias takes some of the shredded bark, and starts rubbing it between his palms. He is turning it into long fibers! He then straightens these fibers out, and starts twisting them together. Chris then gets a harsh look on his face! He explains to me that the poachers use this kind of shrub to make 'in-the-field' twine for their traps. Earlier Chris showed me hundreds upon hundreds of feet of wire snares that they have found on their farm! These wire snares are set indiscriminately around the farm by poachers, and sometimes left for days or weeks without checking them. Anything caught in them dies a cruel and painful death!!!
On the way back to camp, we meet another vehicle coming towards us. Who could that be? Its Maddy! She has come to the farm to pick me up! We all drive back to camp, and have a very lively discussion. Maddy wants to know all about Chris and Hennalé's camp, and they about hers.
First things first! We must go and show Maddy the Pachypodiums here on the farm! She is as awe struck as the rest of us. You could see these plants a hundred times, and still be inspired each and every time!
Back at camp we are talking about everything that comes to mind. Hennalé serves us a very nice brunch, as she does not want anyone to even think that they are hungry. A 'cute' nickname I gave her while staying with them, was 'my food-pusher', as I was on a diet, and she constantly wanted to feed me! I don't think she approved of diets, at least for me! Then we look at our watches and realize it is time to head out! Chris and Hennalé have to go back to Mooikloof, and Maddy and I are heading for Mafunyane! Liverpool [Hoedspruit] Photos
Maddy and I pack up her car with all of my worldly belongings, say goodbye
to Chris and Hennalé, and are off to Mafunyane.
Mafunyane is only about 30km from Liverpool; however, the flora here changes
dramatically. There must be more underground water here, because most of
the trees are green, and there is slight greening in some of the shrub too.
We drive to the Lehmann's house, and it is beautiful! If this is the bush,
I'll take the bush anytime!!! We unpack the car, and settle in for a while,
and then back on the road. Maddy is looking for a 'Bakkie', a bush vehicle.
We locate the ranger in charge, and he loans Maddy one of these vehicles.
Maddy has gotten an Honorary Ranger designation, and as a result, we are
able to go places on this reserve that are off limits to most people. In
addition, we are able to walk around the reserve, and not be confined only
to our vehicle.
In the two+ days spent at Mafunyane, We saw many different species of antelopes, a Puff Adder, a Monitor Lizard, zebras, giraffes, monkeys, baboons, a crocodile, a Cheetah (in a boma), several tortoises, numerous birds, wildebeests, several ostriches, and even a few 'giant' Bush Hares! We were not fortunate enough to see the lions, elephants, rhinoceros, or the hippo name 'Annie'.
However, probably the most spectacular sight that I saw at Mafunyane was during the first evening. Maddy had just prepared dinner on the 'Braai', and we were having a nice hot cup of instant coffee, when she mentioned that it sounds like a storm coming in. I listened carefully, and way off in the distance you could hear some thunder. Within a few minutes the thunder was much louder. It was a very fast moving storm. I mentioned that the storm probably wouldn't amount to much, because it was moving so fast! Within 15 or 20 minutes the storm was on top of us, and boy was I wrong!!! The storm seemed to stall right there! The rain was coming down in buckets, and the lightning and thunder were putting on a spectacularly beautiful show!!! Twice the lightning hit so close that it was blindingly bright! After all I had heard about the dryness and drought, it was as if Mother Nature had decided it was time to help out, and even to display herself in all of her glory! Rain - Lightning - and Thunder!
We lost power that evening, and for most of the next day, however, it was well worth it, to be able to see how fast the plants start responding to a good rainfall. First, all of the dust was washed off the plants, and then within 24 hours, everything was putting on a new show of greenery.
The day that Maddy chose to show me the Pachypodium saundersii at Mafunyane was a very eventful day. We had another encounter with Lord Nelson - the ostrich, were told that the lions had attacked someone's horse, and Maddy had her first encounter with a Puff Adder!!! I'll let her tell that one! Anyway, things were a little spooky that day, and after countless attempts to find the road to these pachypodiums, we finally arrived on site. It was a beautiful large rock formation. As soon as we got out of the Bakkie, Maddy says to keep our ears open and pay attention! Damn, she has never said that before, so there must be something dangerous about this place. When you look at it, it looks like any of the hundred rock formations that you have seen on television, with lions sleeping on them!!! Oh boy, I am not liking this one bit! And now my nervousness is getting to Maddy. We walk into the tall grass for only about 10 meters, and out with a 'roar', comes this giant Bush Hare!!! Must have been at least a foot tall, and scared the living daylights out of us! After a moment, we continued towards the rock formation. This time we got about 20 meters, before another giant Bush Hare jumped out. Damn those things! We finally make it to the rock formation, and the pachys are beautiful, and so is the scenery from up here! After 20 or 30 minutes of sightseeing, we head back to the Bakkie, this time from the other direction. Well, after 15 or 20 meters in the grass, the third and final giant Bush Hare did it's thing, and managed to take a few years off of both of us. Bush Walks
It is Tuesday morning, and this is the day that we have to head back to civilization. We had another nice storm move through last night, not as spectacular as the first one, but the plants and animals are just as happy! The two days at Mafunyane seemed to go by too fast, and I am hoping that the rest of this vacation starts slowing down! We first have to see if we can drive out, because the roads are pretty muddy! The Bakkie makes it with a little bit of effort, but the real test will be if Maddy's car can make it. We decide to wait a few hours and give the roads a chance to dry somewhat. So we make one last drive through Mafunyane. We encounter Lord Nelson one more time! He is standing in the middle of the road, blocking it for us. I tell Maddy, it is if he is demanding a toll, for allowing 'us' on 'his' roads. He does allow us to pass, and to show that he is still 'The Boss', he chases us for a short distance. Today most of the animals seem to be hiding, or just resting, because they have put on quite a display for us since we have been here. After a couple of hours of driving around, and letting the roads dry out a bit, we head back to the house, and finish packing. After all, it is a four-hour drive back to Edenvale.
We are able to get out in Maddy's car, in spite of the muddy roads. Maddy decides to take a different route back, in order to show me more of the country. This route takes almost an hour longer, however, when we drive through an area near Pietersburg, I see new South African countryside. For miles upon miles, the hillsides are covered with tens of thousands of Aloe marlothii. Thank goodness they are on steep hillsides, otherwise, they would have been plowed under to make room for more orchards!
We pull into Edenvale, and a washer and dryer, as tomorrow we are off to Cape Town! Mafunyane Photos
Wednesday - 27 October 1999 - 'Oh my god', do we really have to
get up this early? I have just spent the night at the Lehmann's house, and
we have an early flight to Cape Town. Geez, an afternoon flight would have
been just as nice! Oh well, up and at it. Maddy makes us all a nice cup
of hot instant coffee, and then we load our luggage into Peter's (Maddy's
husband) car, and off we go to the airport.
Right in the center of their greenhouse is a big beautiful Adansonia digitata. Equally beautiful Aloe dichotomas and one or two Aloe pillansii surround the adansonia. As you walk around the greenhouse, each new turn brings another ooh or aah from our lips. In my opinion, the Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden grows the nicest looking Tylecodon paniculatas I have ever seen. They are squat and fat! They must realize that these plants are a thing of beauty, because they are planted everywhere! And, I did not get tired of seeing them! The one disappointing feature of Kirstenbosch was their lack of signs indicating plant names. When I mentioned this to one of the personnel working at the garden, he said that school children were the problem, as they constantly remove the signs. We thought that this was a good excuse for the missing signs, until we went upstairs, and observed the mesemb collection, which is behind glass. There an equal number of signs were missing. It is very frustrating to see a beautiful plant in this collection, and not be able to identify it! One of the most unusual items I saw, was a 'crest' of something, however, I was unable to determine what it was! It appeared to be solid wood, and of course there was no sign indicating what it was.
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I even got caught up in the bulb section! More beautiful plants, in flower no less! A 'hot pink' flower here, and an 'icy blue' one there! Wow, I am not a bulb person; however, in this area I could easily change my mind!
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Next we head outdoors, and the gardens here are even more spectacular! The cycad and fern area is not to be believed! Some of these plants are not just huge, they are monsters! Ten and fifteen foot tall plants abound. It is as if someone transported you back to the Jurassic Period. Plus, ponds and waterfalls everywhere. In one area there were stepping stones set in a pond, just an inch or so above the water level - to allow you to walk into this grotto without getting your feet wet. This place is filled with wondrous ideas and places!
Next we head off for one of the places we were really looking forward to visiting - the bookstore!!! A wonderful selection of books and pamphlets. We are happily browsing through one of the section, when we both spot the 'Out-of-print' bookcase! Maddy tries an end-run around me, I stick my foot out and she tumbles, but just to make sure, a well paced hip-shot, and she is down! I nonchalantly stroll over to the bookcase to see what is available. There I find Doreen Court's book: 'Succulent Flora of Southern Africa'. As long as no one else is interested in the book, I decide to buy it. Maddy, disheveled, walks over to see what I bought. Oh, she cries, 'I have been looking for that book for sooo many years, you are very lucky'!
We look at our watches, and realize it is time to move on. Maddy's Kirstenbosch
The Bookstore
Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden
The next stop on our itinerary is Paarl, so we get out our maps, plan our route, and head off in the car. Did I mention that the roads in and around Cape Town are under construction, and really don't have that good of directional signs? Well, they are, and they don't!!! We are cruising along, and see our first and only sign for Paarl. Trouble is - we are in the wrong lane, and can't get over there to make our turn! Aagh! After about 30 - 45 minutes of driving around back roads, trying to find our way back to that road, we make it.
With our maps out once again, we are charting our next stop - which is
the Karoo Botanical Garden in Worcester. It is a little over an hour's drive,
which Maddy makes in no time at all! Boy, is she a good driver! We pull
into the Karoo Botanical Garden, and are immediately impressed with all
of the cyphostemmas! They are everywhere - fat ones, skinny ones, tall ones
and short ones, and I don't know where to begin taking photos!!! Yes, I
have died and gone to Cyphostemma Heaven! Maddy probably thinks I have gone
crazy, but hands me a tissue to wipe the drool off of my chin. Off we go,
exploring the Garden. We locate the main office, and behind it is a nursery
where they have plants for sale. It is here that I figure there will be
all kinds of cyphostemmas for sale! Nada, Zilch, Zip, Zero, nothing!!! Lots
of mesembs and other kinds of plants, but no cyphostemmas! As we leave the
main office, we notice that there is another building, this one containing
potted plants, and nice ones at that! We go back to see if we can find the
entrance, when we notice the curator talking to an elderly woman. Maddy
and I both think that she looks very familiar! But neither of us knows her!
We do a little conferring with each other, and think that there is a slight
chance that she might be Doreen Court!
It is 1 o'clock, and we are waiting outside of the main office. Doreen Court returns and invites us in to talk to her. I explain that I just purchased her book at Kirstenbosch, and ask her if she will autograph it for me. She asks how much I paid for the book, and then says 'No - don't tell me', because she doesn't want to know! She went on to explain that when the book was first published, she was given 10% of the sales price (25.00 Rand) of each book, which was 2.50 Rand! Curiosity got the best of her, and she flipped the book over to see the price, and almost screamed, when she saw the price was now 950.00 Rand! I told her that that was nothing, because as soon as she autographed it, I would be able to sell it for 5,000.00 Rand. She looked at me wide-eyed, and I told her I was kidding, and that I had no intention of selling the book. She said she shouldn't put my name in it when she autographed it, because that would lower the selling price! I convinced her to put my name in the autograph!!! So, the autograph says: With best wishes to Jerry - Doreen Court. 28/10/99.
She explained that her new book would be out within a year, and she is already working on another one. Maddy asked her if she would pose for a photograph or two, and she kindly agreed. Maddy was walking on air!!!
After Doreen Court left, the curator showed us a slide show, and then gave us a private tour of the Garden's stock plants. Some of the asclepiadaceae in the collection were fantastic. We then purchased some seeds, and started planning our next stop. Let's see - what is the name of that town? Aah, Robertson, and there we'll visit Sheilam's Nursery.
Karoo Botanical Garden
As it turns out, Sheilam's Nursery is a little bit southwest of Robertson,
on National Route 15. It is well marked, and easy to find. Upon arriving
we are amazed at the many specimen sized cacti and succulents. There are
quite a few Alluaudia procera, 15 - 20' tall, and several are in flower.
I wondered at the time, but forgot to ask, if they are getting any seeds
from their alluaudias. I notice an Oreocereus [maximus?], 12 - 15' tall,
and branching! There is also a Stenocereus, that I estimate to be over 25'
tall. In the center of everything is this monster Cyphostemma currori. I
ask the owner if she knows how old the cyphostemma is, and her answer: '30
years old, my husband planted it from seed'.
Sheilam's has some very nice plants for sale, and reasonably priced. Sheilam's Nursery
Well, now we are ready to head off to the place we have been waiting for all this time. Vanrhynsdorp, and the Succulent Trail just north of there. It takes many hours of driving to get there, and we are beat when we arrive. A short break, and Maddy suggests that we drive over to the nursery, even though it is getting late. Today is Friday, and when we get to the nursery, we notice that it closes in less than an hour, and is closed for the weekend!!! The other thing we notice, is that it is DRY!!! Everything is desiccated! We immediately head for the sales house. Very nice plants; tylecodons, othonnas, cyphostemmas, pachypodiums, pelargoniums, etc. But, no Cyphostemma uters! There is also a large propagation house, and because no one is around, we make ourselves at home in there. There is an amazing collection of the asclepiadaceae. This one is equal to or larger than the one at the Karoo Botanical Garden! And, this one appears to be in much nicer condition. At the Karoo Botanical Garden the curator told us that they want to grow their plants under the same conditions that they are subjected to in nature. I see one problem though, in nature they are not growing in pots! After about 20 minutes of wandering around the nursery, a gentleman drives up and introduces himself. He is the owner. He invites us into his office and out of the heat. He tells us that they are entering their third year of drought, and the plants are suffering. Maddy asks him about the Succulent Trail, and he does not recommend us going there, unless we can be there before 6am, and even then we would only be able to take a couple hours of the heat! Additionally, everything is all dried up, and actually not worth the trip. Of course we spot his seed sales area, and dive into the envelopes. All seeds are 5 ZAR (Rand), approximately $0.85 a packet. And, the packets are really full!
Note: Vanrhynsdorp would be an excellent area to visit, once the drought is over! Untold thousands of succulent species are found in this area. July and August are supposed to be two of the better months to visit this area.
The following morning we are headed back for the Cape. This time it is
a very leisurely drive as we want to stop and check out the local terrain.
Plus there are several nurseries that we want to visit. We don't have their
addresses, as they use PO Boxes, however, we do have their telephone number.
Alas, neither one of them are answering their telephones. After a couple
hours of trying, we give up and continue on to the Cape.We have to decide
on whether to go to Cape Point or Table Mountain. Cape Point wins out because
of the weather on top of Table Mountain. Cape Point is a beautiful preserve,
with both plants and animals. You can easily spend a week here and not see
everything. However, we are rushed, as this is our last day on the Cape,
and we have an airplane to catch late in the afternoon.
We take a tram to the top of the point, and the scenery is awesome! Most of the plants up here are quite stunted and exquisite looking. There seem to be beautiful lizards everywhere. Especially the Cape Girdled Lizard, which looks like a small bronze statue.
We are trying to take in as much scenery as possible, but alas, the clock keeps ticking. It is time to head back to the airport and our flight to Johannesburg. It is an uneventful drive to the airport. We drop off our rental car, board our airplane, and depart Cape Town!
Cape Point
We arrive at Johannesburg International Airport, and collect our luggage,
and head off for the Lehmann's home. This time there is no problem at the
airport, as both Maddy and her husband Peter, now know their way in and
out of here, probably with blindfolds on!
I have also noticed that Hennalé is in very good physical condition. We are walking up and down, and up and down these hillsides, and I am starting to huff and puff, and Hennalé isn't breaking a stride. I ask her if she would like to take a break, and she says, 'no', she is fine! I notice a small café/restaurant, and make a break for it, telling Hennalé that I would like to buy her something cool to drink. After a relaxing half an hour, we head for the nursery where they sell plants. Their stock is very low, however, there are still some interesting plants to look at.
From here, Hennalé drives me around Pretoria, showing me different estates, and pointing out some of the more unusual plantings. I want to give Chris and Hennalé something to remind them of our times together, so I ask Hennalé to take me to one of the many roadside gatherings, where they sell everything from [fresh?] fruits, to exotic plants. Hennalé had admired a large Pachypodium lamerei at Harry Botha's farm, so I thought that would be an ideal gift, if I could find one. We were in luck, and I found three of them about 20" tall. I purchased them, and off we went, back to the Steyn's home. Here Hennalé selected the perfect spot for the plants, and had her gardener plant them. She wanted them in a location where she could see them with her morning breakfast.
The next day, Chris is able to get away from his office for a few hours, and we go sightseeing. Chris is able to get us into, and receive a guided tour of one of the largest wholesale nurseries in South Africa. I am totally blown away by the scope and variety of the plants grown here. While they had very few 'Fat Plants', the nursery was still very impressive. We are able to do some more sightseeing, and then a wonderful lunch, with some wonderful friends!
Time! The most fleeting commodity when you are with friends and having a good time! The 4th of November is upon us, and it is my last day in South Africa. Hennalé and I sit around making small talk, and trying to stop the clock. Maddy comes over to visit, and now there are three of us, trying to stop the clock! Chris is able to get out of the office, and come home so that the four of us can be together, and for a brief period re-live the past 2 weeks.
It is time to go to the airport, so we all hug one last time, and promise that we will remain friends and see one another, sometime in the future! Once again Maddy is my chauffeur, and off we go to the airport. Pretoria
Miscellaneous
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